Today is the opening day for one of Detroit’s newest restaurants, Smith & Co.. Located in Midtown, this space and the soon to be Nain Rouge brewing will be a bastion of “locally sourced ingredients and a deliciously Detroit vibe.”

Full disclosure: This was reviewed as part of a media preview. The food and drinks were provided for no charge to the press.

The building formally housed the Smith Welding Supply & Equipment Company that closed in 2007. They retained and restored a number of elements including a beautiful sign. This could be confusing as it wasn’t obviously a restaurant from the signage. There was, however, a temporary banner for my visit on (9/19/19). As build out progresses, I imagine this won’t be an issue. Especially, if you see people eating inside.

Nick Drinks did our due diligence in tasting a number of beers and cocktails along with an assortment of food. I’ll divide it into two categories and give a summary at the end.

The Drinks

Beer will obviously be their focus with the adjacent brewery. Head Brewer, David Hale, wants to have a straight forward program with a max volume of 2,000 barrels a year. Dave is a “Beer First Purist” and wants to let the beer speak for itself. They will be making both ales and lagers with maybe a sour and barrel program in the future. David’s background from previous work at North Peak (whose owners were a guest on Nick Drinks at Night) has opened his mind to the potential of Michigan ingredients. Over his time he has found a love for the state’s hops and wants to use them where ever possible.

The brewery will also be paired with a capital “B” – Barcade (the name brand). While Detroit does have a handful of arcades, this will be the first national name and one tied to a brewery.

The most intriguing part of the brewery is the partnership with Eastern Michigan University. This will be a hands-on training facility for new brewers including a classroom. While there aren’t plans for “civilian” classes, my fingers are crossed.

The launch menu features three Nain Rouge draft beers; Detroit Hibiscus Wheat, Confus Guava IPA and 644 Amber with a fourth IPA to come soon. An additional 16 beers are on draft with a number of cans/bottles as well. They are focused on Michigan products with a few National treasures. Three omissions from their program are the marcos; Bud, Miller and Coors. I don’t think it makes sense to serve them, either.

I sampled the Confus Guava and was pleased with the subtle fruit notes. It was very dry and not overly “IPA Bitter”. There was no sugary essence from the guava which is added along with dry hops for the flavor kick.

The cocktail program is approachable with just enough small chances to convince some vodka soda types to expand their horizons. Shrubs, anise, unusual bitters, home made syrups and Italian liqueurs are all used. There is a mezcal cocktail but it’s the only brand I saw on the back bar was Monte Alban which I personally don’t like.

They are launching with one kegged old-fashioned and four bottled cocktails. While kegging is getting much more common, bottled cocktails tend to play a behind the scenes role. I don’t believe any other establishment has a full selection and section of them on their menu.

I tried the Prom Night Punch, Hop Ritchie and Bourbon & Lacs. Each one was very drinkable and enjoyable. The aren’t overly “wow-worthy” but for a restaurant of this size, I think it’s the right road to go.

The Food

Chef Greg Antioho is transplant from Blue Tractor in Ann Arbor. His take on the menu is to use as much local Michigan ingredients as possible. The food has a traditional concept with international flair. This augments the beverage program nicely. Approachable with calculated risks.

I tried the Smith Burger, Rainbow Trout, Roasted Carrots and Steak Frites. Everything was executed very well with the crispy things being crisp and the tender things being tender (#peabodyAward).

Verdict

This is a solid visit. If you are timid with expanding your beverage and food boundaries, this is a perfect place to slowly expand your comfort zone. If you are chasing the next James Beard or Michilin list contender, you won’t be disappointed but nothing is world changing. I look forward to the opening of the brewery and Barcade in the future. Congrats on the opening Smith & Co.